
Miles' Journeys · Episode 9
A train to Montepulciano
Betsy received the message at 10:14 p.m., when Firenze had already lowered his voice.
“Tomorrow, 10 AM. Piazza della Repubblica. Comfortable shoes, notebook, and a desire to walk. Trust me.”
He didn't ask anything else. With Miles, he already knew that brief instructions hid long days ahead.
At ten o'clock sharp she appeared wearing a light coat and that serene curiosity that seemed to be her signature. Miles was waiting for her, leaning against the railing, two steaming coffees in hand and a smile that held a map.
-List?
—Very ready.
"We're traveling without rushing today," he said.
They walked to Santa Maria Novella, but instead of entering the lobby, Miles turned toward the platforms. In the distance, frozen as if in another decade, was the train: wooden carriages, brass windows, a discreet gleam on the ironwork.
"And this?" Betsy asked.
"One day for Tuscany to speak," Miles replied.
They boarded. The carriage smelled of worn velvet, old luggage, and stories that had never left the train. When the train started moving, Firenze was left behind like a watercolor painting running with water.
The hills began to unfold: golden curves, rows of vines, cypress trees standing tall like punctuation marks. Betsy rested her forehead against the glass; the world, on the other side, seemed to slow down.
"I can't believe such a landscape exists," he said.
"Tuscany isn't seen," Miles replied. "It's breathed.".
The villages followed one another like notes on a musical score: terracotta roofs, tiny bell towers, laundry hanging from balconies. The train took a secondary line and the silence changed texture: more countryside, less city.
They arrived in Montepulciano at midday, the sun gilding the stone. The air smelled of ripe grapes, something ancient that could not be named.
"Shall we go up?" she asked, looking at the steep hill.
"There's a reward at the top," he smiled.
They walked along sloping streets, flanked by tall doorways and artisans' workshops. Every now and then, Betsy would stop to look at a balcony, a shadow, a cat.
"It just feels unreal to be here," she finally said.
"Maybe we're inside a dream, a very vivid one," Miles murmured.
The surprise awaited underground.
They entered a cantina carved into the rock, with uneven steps and cold walls. The temperature dropped, the light turned amber. The air smelled of damp wood, yeast, time.
The sommelier, with a voice like a cello, offered them a glass of Vino Nobile.
—Try this one —he said.
Betsy closed her eyes at the first sip.
"It's the taste of the most exquisite grapes I've ever tasted," he whispered.
Miles leaned his back against the stone and thought the moment was perfect. Montepulciano seemed made to turn down the volume of the world and turn up the volume of the details.
Back on the surface, the village was a friendly labyrinth: tiny shops, hidden courtyards with flowers in the windows overlooking the valley. They descended towards San Biagio, where the stone was bathed in sunlight and the wind carried a scent of wheat, now somewhat indefinable.
They sat on a low wall. From there, the landscape was a blanket of hills spread out in the light.
"Is that why you brought me here?" she asked.
—Because this is a place you had to see —Miles replied.
Betsy lowered her gaze. She played for a second with the sleeve of her coat. Miles said nothing. He had learned that with her, silence was a whole language, not an emptiness.
As the sun began to set, they returned to the train. The seats were warm; the carriage smelled of wine, leather, and old wood.
Betsy opened the notebook and wrote something. Miles didn't read it, but he caught a glimpse of an incomplete sentence: “Some cities…”.
"May I?" he asked, pointing to the pages.
She gently closed the notebook.
—Then —he smiled.
The orange light came in from the side. The train moved forward with an almost musical rhythm. The perfume on Betsy's wrist—iris and sandalwood—had changed: warmer, more her own.
"And tomorrow?" Miles asked.
"I want another day like this tomorrow," she said, without thinking too much about it.
Florence welcomed them with lights turning on one by one. The city seemed less like a stage set and more like a backdrop for something that was just beginning.
Once in the Piazza della Repubblica, Betsy adjusted her coat.
—Thank you for taking me to that wonderful place—she said.
Miles thought that perhaps romance was exactly that: a train journey where the distance between two people shortens to the rhythm of rails and golden light.
❓ Frequently asked questions
What to do in Montepulciano for a sensory getaway for couples?
A slow train journey through Tuscany, a leisurely climb up the steep streets of the village, a visit to a historic underground wine cellar to sample Vino Nobile, and finally, a sunset overlooking the valley from San Biagio. Simple rituals that transform the landscape into shared memory.
